Via Ferrata CAI Mandello

Access

To the Bietti refuge: from Varenna to Esino Lario. Continue to Cainallo and from there to the end of the dirt road in the locality of Vò di Moncodeno (1436 m). Leave the car on a wide clearing. Follow path no. 24
For the Elisa hut: from Mandello del Lario go up to the hamlet of Rongio (393 m) where there is a car park in a square on the right before the end of the road. Follow path no. 14.

Introduction

The itinerary runs along the North-West ridge of Sasso Carbonari and ends at Bocchetta del Releccio, 200 m below the summit of the Northern Grigna. It is an integral part of the Alta Via delle Grigne and the attack can be reached either from the Bietti refuge in about 40' (advisable), or from the Elisa refuge, via the Canalone della Val Cassina, in just under 2 hours. The ferrata is not technically demanding but is very satisfying as it is very varied and articulated. Rocky jumps alternate with stretches of path. You walk over scree, over meadows and between mugo trees with several ups and downs along the uneven ridge.

Description

The route begins with a descent among small rocks with a chain up to the notch (Bocchetta della Val Cassina) to the right of which the path from the Elisa refuge comes out. The first wall, the most demanding, is tackled with the help of a ladder and some stirrups. You enter a small dihedral and after about 30 m of vertical, you come out onto steep meadows to be climbed completely. You then find the chain again, which helps you tackle short rock jumps and sometimes gets lost among groves of mugo trees. This leads to the Finestra di Sengg (2100 m). Go over an equipped slab and then back onto the ridge, following it up to a scree gap. Descend southwards, go around a spur and, after a new gap, return to the Releccio slope. The route continues with fun rock climbs alternating with sections of path. Finally, one passes a stepped wall and, still following the chain, comes out at the Bocchetta del Releccio. The return is generally made by first ascending to the Brioschi hut and from there descending to the Bogani hut along the via della Ganda (path no. 25) in an hour and a half. From the Bogani, after another hour or so, you reach the car park.