Delio Ossola' Ferrata on Monte San Salvatore

Introduction

It is a little-known equipped route, very short but also very athletic. It zigzags vertically up two rocky spurs separated by a short joining path; the equipment is exemplary in terms of construction, functionality and maintenance: a single large progression and safety cable, very taut and reassuring, accompanies you from the beginning to the end of the ferrata. The route is always vertical and exposed, often even overhanging, facilitated at times by indispensable metal stirrups. The rock - pure dolomite - appears rather fractured, but deep down it is more solid than it appears; the itinerary is also feasible - although more care is required - after recent rainfall, as it is not very slippery even when subjected to drizzle. The area should absolutely be avoided during thunderstorms: the frequency of electrical discharges to the ground on San Salvatore is much higher than the Swiss average. For those wishing to climb the ferrata without artificial aids, the difficulty to consider is at least 5b. From the summit you can admire the most celebrated panorama over the whole of Lake Lugano and the valleys that converge on it; a visit to the Sanctuary and the small adjoining museum is also interesting. 

Description

From the small car park of the funicular railway 492m, go up to the left, following the precise signs; beyond the railway line, follow a wide mule track through the forest to a signposted fork: take the path to the right for the ferrata. A steep ascent with narrow hairpin bends cut into the slope leads up into the bush to the foot of the rocks where the equipment begins. The first traverse with a vertical drop of a few metres immediately appears very selective and representative of the "style" of the route; continue vertically, alternating between moving right and left to take advantage of the more accessible openings between the overhangs or smooth slabs. In a short time one reaches the end of the first section and an exposed little path leads to the overhanging base of the second jump; immediately one faces the most spectacular passage of the entire route, an overhanging traverse very ascending to the left under a looming roof. Continue using metal stirrups until a horizontal traverse to the left (the only one with a slightly loose cable) that concludes the via ferrata. A small path along a wooded valley leads back to the mule track that we had abandoned at the initial fork: we climb to the right towards the summit (there are numerous viewpoints along the way, the best at the top of the large rock known as "Sasso del Cucù"). We soon reach the buildings on the summit of Monte San Salvatore 912m: a funicular railway station, restaurant, sanctuary (the view from the roof terrace is complete) and museum. The latter has several small rooms set up in the premises of the former hospice of the "Arciconfraternita della Buona Morte ed Orazione sotto il titolo di Santa Marta di Lugano": documents, paintings, cult objects and costumes pertaining to the confraternity are on display. On the upper floor is a geological/speleological collection and material pertaining to the "Lightning Research Centre" active on San Salvatore from 1943 to 1982. For the return journey, follow the uphill route as far as the junction of the little path coming off the ferrata and then continue on a regular - sometimes stepped - descent along the NNE ridge of the mountain; after passing Muretti 685m (a section of mule track protected and supported by an imposing wall overlooking the lake below), a few zigzags lead back to the initial junction and then to the car park.