Lyskamm traverse, from the Quintino Sella Refuge

Introduction

One of the most interesting mountaineering routes in the Monte Rosa group. The traverse of the Lyskamm from west to east offers a very varied route in beautiful surroundings.

Description

From the Quintino Sella hut, continue on the gently sloping Felik glacier along the normal to the Castore. Climb up to the Felik pass, tackling a somewhat steep ramp. At the pass, altitude 4060m, aim for the obvious shoulder of the Western Lyskamm. Before tackling the steep ascent along the shoulder, cross a very narrow first section of the ridge with a couple of ascents and descents, one of which can be avoided by leaving the ridge and circling on the Swiss side. Here you climb the steep slope (45 degree gradient and more) until you come out on the ridge: ten minutes and you are on the western summit (4481m). From here continue on the line where you face a few mixed passages on exposed rocks, tackling various ascents and descents (in the snowy sections, pay attention to the huge cornices). After skirting a boulder, ascend for a few metres up to a jump, which can be tackled either with a double (webbing) or by unclimbing (III). Continue on snow to the Lyskamm saddle, the lowest point between the two peaks. Another somewhat steep ramp takes you back to the ridge, and after reaching the antecedent, a first peak along the ridge, you reach the second, which is the summit of the Lyskamm Orientale (4527m). The cross is a few metres further on, where the rocks begin. The view is truly spectacular over the entire chain and the major peaks of Monte Rosa. The descent begins by tackling a few small rocks and then along the ridge, paying attention to the cornices, which are also numerous here. You arrive at the shoulder where the ridge flattens out and tapers off to become a real blade, continuing over a few bumps and then with the dive to the Lys pass (45 degrees). If there is live ice, you can opt to descend along the south side. From the base you reach the track that descends to the Gnifetti hut along the simple track that leads to the Margherita hut. From the Gnifetti Hut, you finally descend to the Passo dei Salati and, with the ski lifts, down to Staffal. Beware of cornices! Forbidden for those suffering from vertigo and requires surefootedness. Most of the accidents that occur on this mountain are due to superficiality in mechanically following old tracks without checking their actual safety. Whoever went first is not necessarily right and, in any case, conditions change from day to day: always better to check and perhaps stay further down the track!

Bibliography

• Gino Buscaini, Monte Rosa, Guida ai Monti d'Italia, Milan, 1991

Cartography

• Val d'Ayas e Gressoney, Carta dei sentieri foglio 8, 1:25000, L'Escursionista Editore, Rimini, 2007

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