Monte Matto, east summit

Description

The initial jump of the ridge is conquered directly by climbing up cracked slabs ( III and III+ ). 40mt. Continue for about twenty metres on the horizontal crest, then, sloping to the left through grass and rocks, you arrive at the base of a vertical section: Climb a few metres directly ( III ), then traverse to the right doubling the edge and continue vertically ( IV ) immediately to the right of the edge up to a comfortable grassy ledge. 40 m. Follow the crest, always keeping close to the edge and, passing a long series of stepped gendarmes ( II, III, steps of III+ ), you reach the summit of the first large prominence of the crest. 400 m. Continue slightly downhill, keeping to the south side, to reach the foot of the second prominence. One traverses to the left along some ledges for about forty metres and reaches an area of reddish rocks furrowed by a vague dihedral. Go over the small dihedral (III+) and continue along easier rocks until you reach a small terrace 40 m away. Go over a vertical section along a small, steep ramp ( IV- ) and gain the edge of the crest; along the crest you reach the base of an overhanging section. 40 m. Traverse to the right for 5-6 metres, then climb vertically ( III+, III ) until coming out on easier rocks. 40 m. The crest at this point collapses and via broken rocks you reach the summit. Beautiful and classic climb - First climbers: V.de Cessole with the guides A.Ghigo and J.Plent in 1904.First winter ascent: G.Serra and G.Fulcheri on 21 December 1974. Difficulty AD+. Development: 700 m. Materials: a few pitons, nut and long slings. Crampons useful at the beginning of the season.