Mont Blanc du Tacul, Goulotte Lafaille

Introduction

This is the icy gully located between the ridge that bounds the Couloir du Diable to the south and the even more southerly ridge that originates from the lower group of the Aiguille du Diable (since it is advisable to start in the dark, it would be wise to do some reconnaissance the day before for proper identification). It is a beautiful and classic climb repeated often because it is almost always, in the right season, with ice in excellent condition. It is a little more difficult than the Goulotte Chèré at the Triangle du Tacul. 

Description

Because of the eastern exposure, it is best to set off at night, thus also enjoying the sight of a wonderful icy sunrise before tackling the terminal.
From the Turin Refuge we pass, following the almost always present tracks, the Col des Flambeaux (3047m) and then turn left and descend to the frozen plateau (3220m). We continue up and down and cross a crevasse area, pass below Pic Adolphe at about 3200m and start climbing again on gentle snow-covered slopes to the north-west. After the Pyramide du Tacul, climb steeply to the left to the glacier inlet to the left of the obvious Couloir du Diable (approx. 3450m - 2h00'-2h30'): the goulotte is evident and is the third to the left of the Couloir du Diable. To the left of the latter you pass the terminal crevasse (difficult) and climb the steep slope to the base of the goulotte, climb the first two pitches (70° with 80° passages) with the belays equipped on the right-hand rocks.
Continue in the gully for more than 200m (50°) and, once you have passed a few bulges, you reach the snowy amphitheatre that precedes the last prominence originating from the terminal snowy couloir and the saddle connecting with the lateral Couloir du Diable. In the case of impassability at the bottom of the caravan due to the thinness of the ice, you can take a diagonal couloir on the left (75° - 85°) to return after two lengths to the bottom of the couloir and follow it for 150- 200m (50°) to the saddle connecting with the Couloir du Diable lateral.

Descent
Abseil along the ascent route with the anchors on the orographic left of the couloir. Go over the terminal at its best point, even with a rappel, and take the tracks that lead back to the Rifugio Torino.

Bibliography

•  AA.VV., Mont Blanc (2), Vallot Guide, Edizioni Mediterranee, Rome, 1988

Cartography

•  [[Mont Blanc Courmayeur]], Carta dei sentieri foglio 1 1:25000, L Escursionista Editore, Rimini, 2008