Dent d'Hérens, from the Aosta Refuge

Introduction

A stupendous 4000 metre peak, unjustly overshadowed by the presence of its big sister the Gran Becca at such a short distance, of which, in my opinion, it only has to envy the almost three hundred metres more in height, the Dent d'Herens is practically invisible in its splendour from any Valdostan town. Not even from Breuil-Cervinia, the eye is drawn to this mountain, connected to Cervino by a splendid and difficult ridge. The Swiss north slope, an impressive vertical drop of more than 1,000 metres, is quite another matter; and the view of the west slope can be enjoyed by climbing to the nearby Tête de Valpelline. It is precisely the Italian side that offers the easiest, but certainly not the safest, ascent route: the normal route runs along the south face after a long approach on a very tormented glacier, and climbs steep slopes that should absolutely be avoided in hot weather and in seasons when they are not snow-covered. The ascent of the splendid west ridge is a completely different matter, a climb that is not excessively difficult but never banal: safe, with good rock, always airy and exposed, and in some sections chilling, especially if climbed with crampons when snowy. Don't hesitate to also take it downhill as an alternative to the dangerous normal route!!

Description

From the Refuge Aosta (2781m) descend along the path in front for about seventy metres and follow the tracks on the left that climb steeply along the moraine to the plateau where you set foot on the glacier des Grandes Murailles. Initially, avoid many crevasses and then, staying on the orographic right side of the glacier (on the left as you ascend) at a respectful distance from the face but taking care not to get caught under the looming seracs, ascend a steep glacier ramp that leads to the plateau above. Continue slightly uphill until you reach the western and eastern Tiefenmatten cols separated by a high gendarme, depressions of the ridge that connects the Tête de Valpelline to the Dent d'Herens.
Continue on the glacier, aiming towards the base of the south face of the Dent d'Herens and at the base of the saddle itself, past gigantic crevasses, past the terminal normally on the right, ascend the face on snow (45 - 50 degrees) or in the case of dry weather on small rocks and very unstable scree for a 150m pointing westwards the weakest section on which to reach the ridge above. From here, continue along the previously described route.