Castor, from Staffal
Edited by:
Giancarlo Beretta
Introduction
The ascent to the Castore is a mountaineering classic and consequently very popular: without any particular technical difficulties, however, it allows us to become familiar with the progression on aerial routes along elegant and sinuous ridges on which we must pay due attention. The track, which is almost always present, follows the ups and downs of the bumps, allowing us to enjoy breathtaking views: right on the continuation of the crest from the summit we find Pollux, the Black Rock and the long crest that culminates with the Breithorn with, a little further north, the unmistakable pyramid of the Matterhorn and then sweeping as far as the eye can see the other numerous Swiss and Italian 4000 m peaks and the Gressoney and Ayas valleys below.
.Description
First day From the arrival of the chair lift, take the visible track heading to the right, passing just above two small lakes. The path of detritus and broken rocks crosses the eastern slope of Punta Bettolina and continues along its rocky ridge to reach the lower Bettolina pass (2096 m); from here, still on broken rocks, go up the ridge and follow a semicircle to the right, first passing a small point to reach the upper Bettolina pass (3058 m) where the track intersects with the one coming from Val d'Ayas. Pass by a stone building, bypassing an area where there are some snowfields, and then take the ridge line again, which from here on is equipped with fixed ropes. You now proceed along the ridge line, easily climbing over some rocky peaks with a few ups and downs. You pass a notch above a small bridge and, after a last rocky prominence, you reach the [[Rifugio Quintino Sella]]. Second day You walk northwards on the gently sloping Felik glacier, passing below Punta Perazzi and then deviating slightly to the right to ascend a short but fairly steep slope, the summit of which is reached after having passed the terminal crevasse, usually without any problems. Ascending obliquely to the right to where the slope meets the Lys glacier, you reach, deviating to the left on the wide ridge, the Felik pass (4065m). From this point, the snowy ridge that leads to the summit develops: at first with small ups and downs, then, having passed an altitude of 4093m, the ridge becomes more airy and thin and descends towards a col and then immediately climbs up a hump. All that remains is to continue with an aerial route, staying a little to the right of the line to avoid the ever-present ledges, arriving with a last short climb up the ridge to the panoramic summit.
