Aiguille du Midi, Arête des Cosmiques

Access

Leaving the motorway at the exit of Courmayeur you will pass through the Mont Blanc Tunnel. At the exit into France, follow the signs for Chamonix and the Aiguille du Midi cable car.

Introduction

Beautiful ridge with no objective dangers. This climb can also be done in one day by taking one of the first cabins of the cable car that departs from Chamonix: the first run is at 6.30 a.m. (beware that in high season there can be a queue as early as 5 a.m.). The two-day ascent is described here because, if you wish, you can stay overnight at the Refuge des Cosmiques and take advantage of the comfort of the cable car to combine this ascent with one of the countless others that can be done nearby the following day.

Description

1st Day

From the Aiguille du Midi (3795m), the upper station of the cable car from Chamonix, follow the signs for the Vallée Blanche, exit the ice and rock tunnel and descend the snowy, airy ridge. Following the numerous tracks, you reach the glacier plateau on the right, always skirting the base of the east face of the Aiguille du Midi and the subsequent rocks, then ascend along an obvious track to the Refuge des Cosmiques (0h45'). The hut is guarded and sleeps 120 with reservations recommended (given the crowds) by phoning 50544016.

2nd Day

From the hut, reach the obvious and nearby Col du Midi (3532m) and from the Vallée Blanche side the lower rocks of the south-south-west ridge and gain the ridge at the Col du Midi pass where it suddenly straightens out. Directly force the first rise (II) to reach the first gendarme at an altitude of around 3700m.
Then faithfully follow the ridge line, first snowy and then rocky, to the foot of a large vertical tower. You contour around it from the western slope, then follow the ridge until you reach the base of a new rocky tower that you contour around from the eastern slope. The ridge then straightens out with a large prominence that is climbed via a series of cracks from the west flank (III). Continue along the edge and reach an evident slab; climb over it (III) and at its end you will reach the summit.

Introduction

Beautiful ridge without objective dangers. The ascent can also be done in a day by taking one of the first cabins of the cable car that departs from Chamonix: the first run is at 6.30 a.m. (beware that in the height of the season you can find a queue already before 5 a.m.). The two-day ascent is described here, because if you wish, you can, by staying overnight at the Refuge des Cosmiques and taking advantage of the convenience of the cable car, combine this ascent with one of the countless others that can be done nearby the following day. 

Description

1st Day

From the Aiguille du Midi (3795 m), the upper station of the cable car from Chamonix, follow the signs for the Vallée Blanche, exit the ice and rock tunnel and descend along the snowy, airy ridge. Following the numerous tracks, you reach the glacier plateau on the right, always skirting the base of the east face of the Aiguille du Midi and the subsequent rocks, then ascend along an obvious track to the Refuge des Cosmiques (0h45'). The hut is guarded and sleeps 120 with reservations recommended (given the crowds) by phoning 50544016.

2nd Day

From the hut, reach the obvious and nearby Col du Midi (3532m) and from the Vallée Blanche side the lower rocks of the south-south-west ridge and gain the ridge at the Col du Midi pass where it suddenly straightens out. Directly force the first prominence (II) to reach the first gendarme at an altitude of around 3700m. Then faithfully follow the ridge line, first snowy and then rocky, to the foot of a large vertical tower. You contour around it from the western slope, then follow the ridge until you reach the base of a new rocky tower that you contour around from the eastern slope. The ridge then straightens out with a large prominence that is climbed via a series of cracks from the west flank (III). Continue along the edge and reach an evident slab; pass it (III) and at its end you will reach the summit. Bibliography

Bibliography

• Vallot Mont Blanc Guidebook vol. 2

Cartography

• Monte+Bianco+Courmayeur, Map of trails sheet 1 1:25000, L'Escursionista Editore, Rimini, 2008

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  AttachmentSizeRefuge des Cosmiques © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 48.85 KB
He earns the crest © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 60.33 KB
The first highlight © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 93.85 KB
First snowy slope © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 69.39 KB
First snowy slope © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 66.4 KB
The ridge straightens out © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 72.63 KB
We reach the summit © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 38.76 KB
Overall view of the route © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta | 58.69 KB

• Vallot Mont Blanc guidebook vol. 2

Cartography

• [[Mont Blanc Courmayeur]], Trail map sheet 1 1:25000, L'Escursionista Editore, Rimini, 2008

Photos: 

Aiguille du Midi © 2006 Giancarlo Beretta

Type Trail: 

Rock Trail

D

Mountaineering Grade: 

III

Equipment: 

Crampons, ice axe, rope, nuts, webbing

Recommended Period: 

June, July, August, September

Comprehensive Time: 

4h30'

Access Time: 

4h00'

Descent Time: 

0h30'

Exposure: 

West

Starting Height: 

3532m

Ending Height: 

3842 m

Difference: 

310 m

Access: