Barolo Trail

Introduction

The Langhe del Barolo is a small area with the village of Barolo as its main centre, the land of origin of the 'king of wines' and 'wine of kings', which comes from the Nebbiolo vine (nebiolium). The surrounding hills are geometrically covered with vineyards, and this land was formed by uplifting the seabed in the Tertiary period. The ridge of the hills is a succession of villages and hamlets, built high up for strategic and defensive reasons, many of them with fortresses and castles. La Morra, too, is a hilltop village; indeed, the first nucleus was at Annunziata, where there was a Benedictine monastery, but it was moved higher up in the 12th century and provided with a mighty circle of walls, with two gates and several towers, which were demolished in 1800 when it was no longer necessary to defend the village. La Morra derives from Loci Murrae, a place where sheep were grazed, perhaps those of the monks.... The presence of the Benedictines in the Langhe was widespread, perhaps also because of the hard times around 1200: in 1222 there was a disastrous earthquake, and then plagues, wars, devastation, and the preaching of St Francis of Assisi in 1223. La Morra was founded between the 12th and 13th centuries, and almost immediately became the domain of the Falletti family, who exercised it for a few centuries; after various vicissitudes, in 1631 the territory passed under the House of Savoy.

Description

At the top of the climb, look out from the ramparts to the south-east over the beautiful surrounding countryside; on each hill there is a village or town, and all the sides are covered with vineyards as far as the eye can see. Enter the village (on the left, turning your back to the plain) and climb up to the square where there is the bell tower, which curiously enough was born crooked, to the point that the upper part was built by another master off-centre by about ten centimetres to compensate for the slope. On the 2008 FAI spring day, it was possible to climb up and admire the surrounding countryside and the village from above. Look out again from the balcony in front of the tower, and then continue downhill to the left, to the church of San Martino, with its Baroque façade, and then immediately afterwards, to the left, down the hairpin bends along the ramparts until exiting the village. At the crossroads, a beautiful little church painted in Pompeian red appears: it is the church of Santa Brigida, which behind the altar has some very fine, recently restored 16th-century frescoes, visible only a few times a year, when there are festivities in this church. Back at the crossroads, follow the Cerequio-Fontanazza sign, taking the road that descends to the south; there are two signs, the one for the Barolo tour, whose route is marked by a red and white sign, and a dark sign in the shape of a directional arrow, and a post with a triangle on which is carved a tilted wine glass; the first sign indicates the route from village to village, the second, the Barolo Trail in the commune of La Morra, is about 13 km long, and it is the one that must be followed. We set off along the road, which immediately becomes a dirt track, lined with vineyards from which flowering fruit trees can also be seen in the spring, and continue downhill as far as the hamlet of Cerequio, which seems abandoned and was the scene of a sad case of bloodshed during the Second World War. Immediately afterwards, our route veers to the left and passes almost level beneath the houses of Fontanazza, then climbs up along a dirt track serving the vineyards to the chapel of the Madonna delle Grazie, also known as the Chapel of Barolo, recognisable because it is so colourful; this chapel was built in 1914 by a winegrower, then in a state of abandonment, it was restored by the current owner and painted by Sol LeWitt, and David Tremlett, two very famous artists; LeWitt took care of the exterior, Tremlett the interior, painted with sinuous lines like the surrounding hills, and in the colours of the vines and the earth. Apparently, the two painters were guaranteed a life annuity in good Barolo....After the visit, descend along the road and then turn left, following the signposts; head towards the bottom of the valley, leaving the Torriglione houses on the left, and continuing the route through the vineyards, cross a stream and climb up a capezzagna (dirt road serving the vineyards) to the Rocchette, from which you reach Annunziata. This locality was called Marcenasco in the 12th century and was the site of a Benedictine abbey, later granted to the Servants of Mary; the remodelled church became a parish church; during some restoration work, a 2nd-century AD stele was found under the floor. The apse, bell tower and a side chapel are Romanesque, the façade is Baroque; the monastery cellars house the interesting Ratti Museum, which preserves wine-making equipment, some of it very old. We continue our route along the tarmac road, then leave it and continue to the right more or less level as far as Monfaletto, near a cedar of Lebanon; we descend and pass around the Bricco di San Biagio, leaving it to the right, climb up a dirt road and reach the Tetti di Santa Maria. Turn onto the provincial road and continue as far as the church of Madonna di Plaustra, from which you take the little road that leads to Silio, bending to the left before reaching the hamlet and heading towards La Morra. The path climbs steeply up a slope to the country chapel of the Madonna di Loreto, after which you arrive in La Morra near the sports complex (4h 30').

Bibliography

• Living la Morra 2006/2007
• Guide to visiting open properties in Piedmont - FAI Spring Day 2008