Shisha Pangma

Access

The main routes to reach the summit include:

• North-West Ridge: This is the normal and most travelled route, passing through the advanced base camp and ascending along a ridge with technical passages but less exposed to avalanches.
• South Ridge: A very difficult and avalanche-prone route, explored only by experienced mountaineers and chosen for extreme attempts.
• North-East Ridge: Less common, it presents high technical difficulties and requires extensive preparation.

There are no permanent shelters or bivouacs along the ascent routes, and climbers must therefore rely on the advanced camps they set up during the expedition. The camps are set up and dismantled as the ascent progresses.

Introduction

Surrounded by a series of secondary peaks and remote valleys, Shisha Pangma dominates a region where Tibetan and Himalayan influences merge. Its proximity to Nepal offers a variety of landscapes, from glaciers to steep, slippery slopes. The climate is typically mountainous, characterised by strong winds and low temperatures, with conditions deteriorating considerably in winter, making climbing extreme.

Description

Surrounded by a series of secondary peaks and remote valleys, Shisha Pangma dominates a region where Tibetan and Himalayan influences merge. Its proximity to Nepal offers a variety of landscapes, from glaciers to steep, slippery slopes. The climate is typically mountainous, characterised by strong winds and low temperatures, with conditions deteriorating considerably in winter, making climbing extreme.
The Shisha Pangma is the lowest but also one of the least accessible eight-thousanders, located entirely in Tibet, near the border with Nepal. Despite its relatively lower altitude compared to the other Himalayan giants, its location in a less frequented area makes its exploration complex and challenging. The first ascent in 1964 was led by a Chinese expedition, as access was heavily regulated by the Chinese government and for years was forbidden to foreign mountaineers.
Interest in Shisha Pangma grew in the 1980s, with the opening to international teams. Over the years, several routes have been explored, with various attempts on its north-west ridge and south face, famous for its danger and avalanches. The most notable challenges occurred in the 2000s, with the first winter ascent in 2005 by Simone Moro and Piotr Morawski.
For the Tibetan and Nepalese communities, the mountain has spiritual and mythological significance. Known as Gosainthan in Nepal, the name means 'place of the gods', evoking belief in the sacredness of its slopes. The summit is said to host mountain spirits, making it a place of reverence for the local people. In addition, Shisha Pangma is considered one of the places of meditation for Tibetan lamas, being a symbol of peace and perseverance.
The Tibetan name 'Shisha Pangma' means 'ridge above the grass', recalling the grassy meadows at the foot of the mountain. The name reflects the unique topography of the area, where, unlike other Himalayan peaks, the base has patches of green before meeting the glacial surfaces and steep ridges.

Information

Height: 8.027 m
Alternative name: Gosainthan (local name in Nepali)
Mountain group: Himalaya, Langtang Himal sub-chain
First ascent: 2 May 1964
First ascenders: Xǔ Jìng, Zhāng Jùnyán, Wáng Fùzhōu, Wū Zōngyuè, Chén Sān, Soinam Dorjê (Suǒnán Duōjí), Chéng Tiānliàng, Migmar Zhaxi (Mǐmǎ Zháxī), Dorjê (Duōjí) and Yún Dēng
First winter ascent: 14 January 2005
First ascenders in winter: Simone Moro (Italy), Piotr Morawski (Poland)

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